Tips

Fresh Face

EXFOLIATE, BRIGHTEN, FIGHT BREAKOUTS—YOU NAME IT, an acid can do it. OUR GUIDE TO THESE SLOUGHING SUPERSTARS WILL HELP YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE. A MORE GLOWING, RADIANT YOU IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER.
48_52 Acid Beauty SHIP.indd

In the world of cosmetic ingredients, there are the questionable exotics (extracts harvested once a year at exactly 12:01 a.m. by women on a mountaintop in some far-fl ung locale), and then there are the tried-and-true workhorses that dermatologists swear by. File acids in the latter category. Whether your skin is sensitive or acne-prone, these mainstays—many of them, naturally derived—are experiencing a resurgence, and for good reason. “Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids are excellent at loosening complexiondulling dead skin cells,” says Heidi Waldorf, M.D., professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine of Mount Sinai. But that’s not all: There are varieties that moisturize, fade dark spots, and squash acne-causing bacteria. Let’s get this acid trip started.

The Gentle Renewer – Lactic Acid

Everyone’s skin needs exfoliation—even dry, sensitive types. And this is where lactic acid may have the edge. Like glycolic acid, lactic is an alpha hydroxy acid that helps to get rid of dead skin cells so you can be at your most radiant and refreshed looking. It’s often derived from milk (many products are now using goat’s milk for their lactic acid fi x) and is considerably gentler than its glycolic cousin, making it an ideal pick for those with cranky, highly reactive skin. “Ironically, another thing that’s great about lactic acid is that it’s hydrating, so if your skin is dry, this is also a solid choice,” says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, founder of beautystat.com. For rightnow results, creams and peels are your best bet.

FIND IT IN: Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cream ($50, katesomerville.com); Beekman 1802 Walking on Clouds Goat Milk Foot Polish ($35; beekman1802.com)

The Hydration Hero – Hyaluronic Acid

This humectant can attract and hold onto about 1,000 times its weight in water, plumping and moisturizing skin from within, and—get this— our body naturally produces it. Over time though, that natural production slows, leaving your outer layer drier and more prone to sagging and wrinkles. “It’s an extremely large molecule, so topical products have notoriously not been able to penetrate the skin and achieve results,” says Robinson. No more. These days, brands have been able to make hyaluronic acid microscopic, synthesizing it from glucose in a lab, so the ingredient can get down into the deeper layers of skin and do its thing. Get your hyaluronic acid in a concentrated mask form for the highest dose of hydration.

FIND IT IN: Mychelle Ultra Hyaluronic Water Mask ($16, mychelle.com)

The Zit Zapper – Salicylic Acid

Pimples are no match for this beta hydroxy acid. It’s oil soluble, meaning it’s better able to penetrate pores and attack acne than it’s alpha hydroxy acid cousins. “Salicylic acid is also a great exfoliator, with anti-infl ammatory properties and the ability to reduce production of pore-clogging sebum,” says Waldorf. You’ll fi nd it in a variety of products—cleansers, toners, moisturizers—at a 2% concentration, says Robinson. e natural ingredient (oftentimes derived from willow bark extract) is well-tolerated by most skin types, but can be slightly irritating, so start slowly. Use your sal-acid product every other day or every third day, working up to daily use. One smart way to use salicylic is in scrub form—the gentle physical exfoliation combined with the chemical sloughing is a onetwo punch against overactive sebaceous glands and active acne. “But be careful if you’re using other potentially irritating ingredients, such as products with retinol, vitamin C, or alpha hydroxy acids,” adds Waldorf

FIND IT IN: C’est Moi Cleansing Scrub ($12, cestmoi.com)

The Spot Sapper – Kojic Acid

Dark spots are a real bummer. Caused by overactive melanocytes (pigmentproducing cells in your skin), they’re spurred on by sun exposure and, in some cases, genetics. Recently, hydroquinone, an ingredient used for years by prescription and in over-the-counter products to treat dark spots, has come under fire after a small animal study found it could play a role in hormone disruption (many dermatologists say it’s fine to use and still prescribe it). So if you’re looking for a natural lightening alternative, kojic acid is your best bet. Derived from mushrooms, kojic acids works like hydroquinone, shutting off pigment-producing cells to fade discoloration over time, says Waldorf. Always use a kojic acid product in conjunction with sunscreen. “If you don’t protect your skin from the damaging rays of the sun, any discoloration will immediately return,” she adds.

FIND IT IN: 100% Pure Brightening Serum ($47, 100percentpure.com)

The Newcomer – AzElAic Acid

You may not have seen this one yet, but come fall, it will be a staple on beauty counters everywhere. This ingredient, derived from wheat, grains, and barley, helps to control the production of melanin, reducing the appearance of dark spots and treating hyper-pigmentation. It can also unclog pores and protect against infection, acting as an antibacterial and antioxidant, says Waldorf. Because it offers so many healing and anti-infl ammatory benefits, it’s a natural go-to for fighting acne and rosacea, says Robinson. A recent study in the Journal of Drugs and Dermatology, found that the use of azelaic acid can lead to clearer skin for those who have rosacea, acne, and even melasma.

FIND IT IN: Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($50, paulaschoice.com)

The Glow Getter – Glycolic Acid

One of the better-known alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic has a small molecular size, which means it can penetrate deeper and off er better results than some of its peers. “This is exactly why you’ll find glycolic to be the most-used acid in professional peels at doctor’s offices,” says Waldorf. Typically derived from sugarcane, you’ll find it in cleansers, toners, serums, masks, and peels. It dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together so they can be gently whisked away.

If it’s convenience you’re after, a cleanser is your best bet. Keep in mind that these products tend to be milder than other formulations, so you may need to use it for a few weeks to see a difference, says Robinson. For faster results, leave-on products like peels and gels are a better option. In addition to brightening and exfoliating, glycolic acid can actually stimulate collagen and thicken the outermost layer of your skin for an overall anti-aging effect. “Glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to UV light, so it’s important to apply a broad spectrum sunscreen immediately after using a glycolic product,” Waldorf adds.

FIND IT IN: InstaNatural Glycolic Peel ($25, instanatural.com)